(What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) Isabella RosselliniManifesto Its widely used in white florals, and scents seeking to capture springtime-in-a-bottle, but because real hyacinth oil produced by a process of extraction is heart-stoppingly expensive, cant-tell-it-from-real synthetic hyacinth notes are what perfumers turn to, nowadays. At least thats what I believe. Este Lauder Pleasures Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC Want an exclusive offer? Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom Loilta Lempicka L de Lolita While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. Nasomatto Black Afgano Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Pausa Diptyque Tam Dao In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. Maison Martin Margiela Untitled Evody Pomme dOr What is it? Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. Britney Spears Curious Roos & RoosMentha Religiosa Balmain Eau dIvoire Intoxicating, so intoxicating. 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Pandas love it. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. And who doesnt adore those tiny nodding blossoms, with their almost-candied, sweet, powdery scent? In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. From the berry of the rose one of the richest sources of vitamin C, in nature rosehips floral-fruity tang mostly makes its way into feminine fragrances, and the odd masculine scent. Balenciaga Cristobal Balenciaga Youll get a sweetness, maybe a hint of caramel, from this fruit of Heaven as its known. Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. Thats the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Strangelove deadofnight LOccitane Cherry Blossom Este Lauder Private Collection Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Chanel No. But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). (Although LArtisan Parfumeur built a whole fragrant collection around it), Caron Secret Oud The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. Goutal Eau du Ciel Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Dior Dune And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. That could be heliotrope, too. A short-lived perennial with beautiful white flowers, edelweiss has long been valued as a medicinal plant but in fragrance, its not actually used very widely. 5. Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Plus, when lab-made ingredients are used, they are subject to a safety screening. Jean Patou 1000 ), Chanel Bois des Iles The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Frederic Malle Noir Epices The galbanum used in No. This scent comes from the oil itself that has been compounded through distillation (typically steam). Floris A Rose For Jo Malone The Refreshing Pair Solid Perfume Duo$76. Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. "Orris is utterly timeless, and emerged through every single perfumery period, bringing unique nobility. Gucci Alchemist's Garden Winter Spring Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur But how does it smell? Lilies have been used in perfumery since ancient times: they were very well-loved in Egypt, as part of a perfumed ointment based on the flowers of 2000 lilies, while the ancient Greeks used Madonna lilies to make a perfume called Susinon. Its mostly used for its good-enough-to-eat sweetness in gourmand scents - but occasionally by perfumers for extra richness in fragrances from other families. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Take C7 or heptanal, naturally occurring in clary sage, with its herby-green odour. GivenchyXeryus A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. Jo Malone London Grapefruit Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: Most popular women's perfume. Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Ambre perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. Halston Woman Amber The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Originating from south America, this member of the nightshade family can be grown in greenhouses and outside, during summer months, as ornamental, which range from white to pale purple via yellow and pink. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum Dermal sensitizer and allergen. The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). An aromatic chemical that adds a sea breeze or marine-type note to fragrances, calone is a powder that is 100 percent man-made. Unable to marry him due to her divine nature, she transformed herself into a plant that would provide pleasure and happiness that plant was the Vanilla vine. "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. "We have seen our online sales increase between 150 and 200 percent, depending on . Maybe it is because it brings together the etherealpleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our bodywith food. 5. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Chanel No. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Our hunch is that forget-me-not is simply there to help conjure up an image for the perfume either to give a sense of delicacy and softness, or for emotional reasons: according to folklore, the wearers of forget-me-nots would not be forgotten, by their lovers. Paul & Joe Blanc. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) Each fragrance has a distinct smell based on how it was made and the various perfume ingredients used in it. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Chanel Allure Bella Bellissima Royal Saffron Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. Goutal Paris Le Masmin As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. LOccitane de Provence Verbena Sorbet. Bond No. FragonardJust un Baiser Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. Clive Christian C for Women It also blends beautifully with sweet pea and with tuberose. Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). As well as occurring naturally, though, benzyl alcohol may also be chemically produced from petrochemical sources. Este Lauder Pleasures, Whoosh! Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. Penhaligons La Violetta Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. "Ozone has been used for many years but really exploded after the creation of L'eau D'Issey in 1992. In traditional perfumery youd use it to blend with the top and mid notes, youd leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. The most common ingredient found in perfume bottles is essential oils. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Burberry The Beat Jean Patou Joy Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. Nina Ricci Mademoiselle Ricci. Chanel Coco Noir Others are reminded of angelica, frankincense and celery, while we love this quote from the blogger Boisdejasmin, when she dipped her testing strip into some opoponax: The wave of warm, sweet scent washed over me: it smelled of aged whiskey, mahogany shavings and bitter caramel, but it was also velvety and powdery. The resin is extracted from the bark of the Commiphora eyrthraea tree (mostly from Somalia), and is also known as sweet myrrh. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Philospohy Baby Grace Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. (Look under E for more about eugenol.). Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Chanel Coco Noir When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. Dermal sensitization and systemic toxicity. Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. ', A hay meadow in a bottle? Annick Goutal le Mimosa The fragrance ingredients market, on the other hand, is expected to grow by $2.83 billion at a CAGR of 3.90% during the same period. Herms Un Jardin Aprs le Mousson LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Guerlain Tonka Impriale But flax has also been used in perfumery as long ago as Egyptian times, as a base note mildly nutty in character. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. And in perfumery? Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Creed Love in White See more answers to this puzzle's clues here . Serge Lutens Datura Noir Paco Rabanne Lady Million Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. Este Lauder Sensuous Because its feels like a glorious smell. Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Dior Miss Dior Add a touch to cooking, and it turns a dish bright yellow. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. So why use tolu at all? The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Theyre often eaten raw, to enjoy the sweet/sour flavour blend from the thin rind, contrasted with the juicy flesh. Founded by Kilian Hennessythe grandson of the famed cognac-making familyin 2007, the eco-luxe brand is renowned for crafting scents that spark conversation. In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. Seasonally perfect scents delivered right to your door. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. But just sometimes, youll catch a whisper of avocado in perfumery: it has a green, slightly sweet, vegetal quality. Miller Harris Terre de Bois, Deadly nightshade. Cathy Helbig is a contributing writer covering fragrance for Byrdie. Versace Crystal Noir. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. Prada Infusion dIris Marc Jacobs Blush, Vanilla doesnt just smell sweet, nuzzleable and delectably comforting: its kind of magic, in flavour and perfume terms. Our favourite lilac legend, though, is that the deep floral fragrance was believed in Celtic cultures to transport humans into fairyland and the spiritual world. Patchouli is a magical ingredient. Since obtaining essential oil from the plant is not possible, perfumers have reproduced its scent with different ingredients," says Huclier. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Este Lauder Private Collection [1] Of these 3,059 ingredients, some have evidence linking them to health effects including cancer, reproductive toxicity, allergies and sensitivities. Steam-extracted from the leaves of a family of super-fast-growing trees and shrubs native to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania over 500 different varieties eucalyptus can add an airiness to perfumes, with its green, camphor-y, lemon-ish facets. works nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment', STORIES N.02 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, STORIES N.01 Bougie Parfume Scented Candle Trio, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -, 4160 Tuesdays Another Kiss by the Fireside, 4160 Tuesdays Midnight in the Palace Garden, 4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old Havana, 4160 Tuesdays The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. 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